Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - A better Vitamin C for Your Skin
People use vitamin C for its multiple skin benefits, excellent safety data, and solid science behind it. It is used for skin protection, promoting collagen synthesis in antiaging skincare, and depigmentation quality for managing skin hyperpigmentation concerns. Nobody wants to miss out on its benefits regardless of age. However, not all vitamin C is created equal. Choosing the best vitamin C produces different outcomes.
What does vitamin C do for our skin?
Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid - Potent antioxidant
Vitamin C, ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid), is a potent antioxidant. Along with vitamin E and glutathione, they form the essential anti-oxidative system against free radicals and reactive species in our body to protect us.
The skin is the most critical organ in protecting the body against environmental insults and maintaining the stability of the internal environment for survival. This protection heavily relies on the skin.
Vitamin C is abundant in the epidermis and dermis. It protects skin cells, barrier integrity, and collagen and elastin from deterioration induced by oxidative stress and ensures the skin's physiological functions.
As we age, our skin's natural reserves of vitamin C gradually decline. This decline makes our skin even more susceptible to the damaging effects of UV light, environmental pollution, and other environmental factors. It's a stark reminder of the need to supplement our skin with this vital nutrient.
Vitamin C in Collagen Synthesis and Skin Healing
Vitamin C is critical in collagen synthesis, maturing pathways, and biochemical processes in the skin. Collagen and elastin are the two major matrix components that keep the skin's youthful and radiant appearance by maintaining the skin's average volume, elasticity, firmness, and healing process.
Vitamin C in Keratinocyte differentiation
Epidermis, the outer layer of the skin, is highly cellular. 90% of the skin cells are called keratinocytes. Those skin cells and the lipid-rich "glue" between them form a water-resistant barrier separating external and internal environments. In studies, vitamin C was found to promote the synthesis and organization of barrier lipids and strengthen those keratinocytes. In turn, it helps to make our skin barrier stronger with better protection properties.
Vitamin C in Improving Skin Texture
Topical L-ascorbic acid is usually delivered at a low pH, and its chemical structure is similar to that of AHAs. It works as an exfoliant, promoting skin cell turnover to improve skin structure.
Vitamin C in depigmentation skincare
Vitamin C inhibits melanin synthesis and skin depigmentation by interacting with copper and iron and inhibiting tyrosinase, a critical enzyme in melanin synthesis.
Vitamin C is a great agent used to prevent sunspot formation. However, it is not a potent depigmentation agent. For the sole purpose of managing hyperpigmentation, it is best to combine it with others.
Anti-Inflammatory Quality of Vitamin C
Vitamin C supports the skin's immune system, inflammatory reactions, and wound healing. This makes it a perfect ingredient for managing acne and rosacea.
The weakness of L-ascorbic acid
Poor Skin Absorption - L-ascorbic acid
L-ascorbic acid is the active form of vitamin C in our skin. All vitamin C derivatives have to convert into L-ascorbic acid in the skin before the skin uses them. Unfortunately, L-ascorbic acid has poor skin absorption. High concentrations and low pH are usually formulators to increase skin absorption and push it into the skin. Those methods can cause a series of skin problems.
Stability Issue and in Skin Tone Change - L-ascorbic Acid
L-ascorbic acid is super unstable. It deteriorates quickly when water or air, light, and heat are present, making it hard to reserve its skincare power. The degraded L-ascorbic acid produces a yellowish, orange color, and its metabolites potentially cause skin irritation. Usually, a much lower pH and combining other antioxidants can overcome the stability issue; L-ascorbic acid will degrade on the skin. Long-term use can cause the skin to change its natural tone. It isn't easy to overcome.
Skin Irritation:
L-Ascorbic Acid is usually formulated at higher concentrations (10-25%) with lower pH. Skin irritation has always been a problem, especially for sensitive skin types. The higher the concentration is, the more irritating it is to the skin. Skin irritation is a form of inflammation. It is not suitable for the skin.
Newer Forms of Vitamin C: Stable & Effective
Because of L-ascorbic acid's weaknesses and its unbeatable skin benefits as a cosmetic ingredient, many L-ascorbic derivatives have been developed in the past decade. This means that scientists chemically modify the molecule of the original form, L-ascorbic acid, to produce a new form of vitamin C to make it better suited for cosmetic purposes.
One of them is Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate. This vitamin C is a winner in skincare, especially in forming oil treatment serums. It has all the qualities that L-ascorbic acid has without its weakness.
It is oil-soluble, making it more compatible with the lipid skin barrier for easy absorption. This higher availability allows the formulators to use it as a much lower concentration to deliver similar skin protection, antiaging, and depigmentation benefits.
There are a few water-soluble vitamin C derivatives developed for the same purposes.