Cysteamine HCl - Everything You Need to Know About Cysteamine HCl

Cysteamine HCl has been known as an excellent depigmentation ingredient for almost seven decades. Its potent skin-lightening efficacy is backed by solid research and science, making it a perfect hydroquinone alternative.

A double-blind, randomized Study conducted in 2015 concluded that "cysteamine cream showed significant efficacy in the treatment of melasma." This study also confirmed the efficacy of treating melasma. 

In this randomized study, 5% cysteamine cream was used to compare 4% hydroqinone/3% ascorbic acid in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation induced by acne. There is no difference in their depigmentation results.

 

Why not Hydroquinone (HQ)

Hydroquinone has always been the gold standard of depigmentation agents. When a new skin-lightening agent is developed, it is always compared against hydroquinone (at a 2%—4% concentration) to evaluate its efficacy. Hydroquinone has remained in its top position in this category for a long time until now.

Unfortunately, long-term toxicity from hydroquinone can permanently cause the skin to turn blue or black. If this happens, not only does it make the skin condition worse, but there is no way to reverse it. HQ is also a skin irritant and causes skin inflammation and photosensitivity issues. The side effects and safety concerns limit its usage in treating and managing hyperpigmentation. 

Nowadays, professionals are still using it for short-term treatment for certain indicated cases. It is used under the close supervision of professionals. Unfortunately, most hyperpigmentations need long-term management to keep these conditions from coming back but there isn't an effective way for it.

Hydroquinone's side effects include:

1. Skin irritation
2. Allergic reaction - contact dermatitis
3. Redness, skin stinging, and dryness
4. Skin inflammation
5. Increase the skin photosensitivity. 
6. Permanent changes of blue-black discoloration that can't be reversed, especially for long-term users.
7. About 35-45% of this topical regimen can be absorbed into the bloodstream. Studies have shown that HQ is toxic to melanocytes, but we still do not know what happens after it is absorbed into our bodies. There is no safety data for pregnant/becoming pregnant and breastfeeding women.
8. HQ has been considered as a carcinogenic agent. It has been banned in certain countries.
9. Complete depigmentation has been observed When HQ is treated with acne PHI. This leaves undesirable "white" spots on the treated sites.

 

Cysteamine HCl - Effective and Safe Alternative of Hydroquinone

There are at least 3 reasons you need to choose Cysteamine HCl over hydroquinone:

1. Efficacy in skin-lightening is the same as or slightly stronger than hydroquinone. 
2. Can be used as a short or long-term management for hyperpigmentation
3. Professionals recommend topical use of this ingredient for long-term maintenance or management of hyperpigmentation issues.
4. Gentle to the skin for all skin types. It doesn't induce hyper-photosensitivity. You can use it any time during the day.
5. No prescription required. You can use it at home no supervision is needed.

Due to its potent skin depigmentation efficacy, safer, and gentle to the skin, cysteamine HCl becomes an excellent alternative for hydroquinone and long-term management of all kinds of skin hyperpigmentation conditions. It can be used at any time of the day.

But you might ask, if cysteamine HCl's efficacy is so good, why hasn't it been used broadly?

The only reason it hasn't been developed into products is the 'sulphur-like' odor associated with it. Although some brands offer cysteamine HCl-containing with high price tags, its unacceptable odor remains the number one complaint. People usually can put up with the high price tags but not the bad smells. 

Now, a modified cysteamine HCL has been developed by using a new technology. It has dramatically limited the offensive odor. Such products will soon be available at acceptable prices. The limitation of the offensive odor reassures cysteamine HCl as an excellent alternative to hydroquinone and is accepted by consumers.

How does cysteamine work?

Although the exact mechanism of how cysteamine reduces skin pigmentation is not fully understood, multiple studies have shown that cysteamine HCl targets melanin synthesis in melanocytes at multiple levels. It works as an antioxidant, inhibitor of tyrosinase, and peroxidase inhibitor, as a copper and ion chelate agent, all contributing to its potent depigmentation effects.

What is cysteamine HCl suited for:

It is gentle and skin-friendly and suited for safe use of all hyperpigmentation conditions when used topically:

1. Melasma
2. Hormonal skin discoloration
3. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), such as acne, skin infection, burns, etc.
4. Sun spots, also called age spots, liver spots.
5. Freckles

Who shouldn't use it?

Cysteamine HCl has been used for many years as an oral drug or an eye drop for a certain type of metabolic disease. However, we still haven't established safety data for pregnant or breastfeeding women. If you are in those situations or have other health issues, please consult your healthcare professionals. 

Cysteamine skincare products should not be used by anyone with a personal or family history of vitiligo, a depigmenting disorder. .

 

How to Use Cysteamine HCl in skincare routine and cautions

How to use Cysteamine Products:

It needs to be used only once a day. 

Clean and dry the skin. Apply the product evenly to the skin, carefully avoid eyes and contact with eyes. Let it sit for 15 minutes. Wash it off. Apply a good moisturizer after.

You can gradually extend the time stays on the skin. Eventually, leave it overnight.

How long does cysteamine take for skin-lightening results?

Visible results take at least 6 weeks to produce. Optimal results can be achieved after 8-12 weeks. To accelerate skin-lightening results, use it with tranexamic acid. Studies have shown that combining those two products can achieve faster and better results.

Side Effects of Cysteamine in Skincare

The side effects rarely occur. However, temporary skin irritation might happen, such as skin dryness, mild redness, and a burning sensation. A good moisturizer can reduce the chance of those side effects.

 

How to choose Cysteamine HCl Products  

1. Pay attention to the concentration of cysteamine HCl in those products. As far as I know, 5% of the cysteamine regimen has been used in almost all clinical studies. So, I would trust this concentration as a gold standard.
2. Make sure the products were made 6 months ago. Freshness is important for full strength of efficacy in active skincare products.
3. Cysteamine serums: A well-formulated serum can be easily combined with other products in your routine. It can also be rinsed off without using a cleanser when you start using it. 
4. Moisturizer: If you don't have a favorite moisturizer that you have to use, such as retinol, this moisturizer can be used as your night moisturizer. Use the cleanser to wash it completely off your skin when you are at the beginning.
5. Mask: An oil-free gel mask is also a great choice. You can use it the same way as you use a serum.