4-Hexylresorcinol - A potent Skin Lightening Agent

While most people know Hexylresorcinol (HR) as a highly effective skin-lightening ingredient, it is much more than that. It is a multi-functioning cosmetic ingredient with strong pigment reduction properties, offering a wide range of skincare benefits for all skin types.

Hexylresorcinol in skin lightening:

Hexylresorcinol is commonly called 4-hexylresorcinol, a cosmeceutical-grade skincare ingredient.

As a potent skin lightening and tone corrector, hexylresorcinol targets 8 spots of melanin synthesis pathways when used alone. It can also be combined with other skin-brightening agents to produce synergistic results.  

In vitro studies show that hexylresorcinol is 8 times more potent than hydroquinone, kojic acid, and licorice in inhibiting tyrosinase bioactivities. 

In in vivo studies, at 0.5% concentration, hexylresorcinol is equally effective in reducing pigmentation at 4 weeks and more effective at 8 weeks compared to 2% hydroquinone. Best of all, it doesn't have the devastating side effects of hydroquinone.

In studies, hexylresorcinol lightens the dark patches and spots effectively without affecting the surrounding skin tone. It doesn't cause permanent skin blackening, like hydroquinone can do. For that reason, it is safe to use to lighten the general skin tone and hyperpigmentation. It works for all skin tone types. 

 

Other Skin Benefits of Hexylresorcinol

Skin Protection

Hexylresorcinol is a potent antioxidant that protects and repairs DNA damage, stimulates glutathione activities, reduces glycation to protect proteins, such as collagen and elastin, and reduces skin inflammation. All those properties contribute to safeguarding skin from deterioration caused by oxidative stress.

Hexylresorcinol's Anti-aging Benefits:

HR provides antiaging benefits by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis, boosting the skin's firmness, correcting volume loss, and reducing the depth of wrinkles. 

 

How to Formulate with Hexylresorcinol 

Hexylresorcinol Oil Serum

Hexylresorcinol is an oil-soluble skin-lightening ingredient. The easiest way to use it is to dissolve it in an oil medium at 0.5-1% range. 

It is highly soluble in PEG-8, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, and isosorbide dicaprylate. 

For normal and dry skin types, add HR to the caprylic/capric triglyceride and gently apply a little heat (less than 40°C, 104°F) while stirring until the solid has completely dissolved. 

For oily skin, use 10% isosorbide caprylate to dissolve 0.5-1% HR. Gently apply at a bit of heat (less than 40°C, 104°F) while stirring until the solid is completely dissolved. Then add other light oils, such as squalane, prickly pear seed oil, blueberry oil, etc. 

You can also add other oil-soluble ingredients, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, to your creation. 

Making Hexylresorcinol emulsions 

A few things need to be considered: 

1. HR is sensitive to metals, such as iron or copper. 0.1% EDTA or other chelate agents can be used for protection
2. Solublize it before adding it to the cooldown phase. Avoid heat over 40°C (104°F)
3. Keep pH at the acidic range (below 6.0) in final products.
4. Non-ionic emulsifiers are preferred over anionic types.
5. HR might cause a drop in the viscosity of the emulsions; anionic or neutral thickeners are suitable for maintaining the desired viscosity.
6. Protect the finished products by using airless and opaque packaging. 

Formulate a clear/transparent water-containing  serum: 

1. Use high HLB value solubilizers for HR, such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and polysorbate 20 and 80.
2. Avoid metals like iron and copper by using a chelate agent
3. Avoid heat over 40°C (104°F)
4. Using the packaging to protect the end product from light.

Compatible ingredients with hexylresorcinol: 

HR is easily integrated with other commonly used ingredients, such as Niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine, and Bakuchiol.

 An example of HR oil serum: 

Ingredients: You can find all ingredients HERE

70.5% Caprylic/capric triglyceride

7% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

10% Prickly pear seed oil

10% Squalane (Olive)

2% Isosorbide caprylate

0.5 Acetyl Zingerone